Among the more common tools used by professionals around the world is the rake pick. The rake pick is used to "rake" the tumblers into place by sliding it in and out across the tumblers. I seldom use the rake pick because it is not highly effective and I consider it a sloppy excuse for a lock pick. I've seen the rake pick work on some difficult locks, but you can rake with a diamond pick and get the same results. I prefer the diamond pick for most tumbler locks simply because it is easier to get in and out of locks-it slides across the tumblers with little or no trouble.

A ball pick is used for picking double-wafer cylinder locks, though I never carry one; I use a large diamond pick and reverse it when picking these locks. This means I have one less pick to carry and lose.

A double-ball pick is used like a rake on double-wafer locks in conjunction with a tension wrench (two-pronged end).

A hook pick is used to open lever tumbler locks, though again, I use a diamond pick with a hooking action when possible. There are various sizes of hooks but they all have the same basic job - to catch the movable levers that unlock lever locks.

There are also various sizes of tension wrenches. They are usually made from spring steel. The standard tension wrench is used for pin and wafer locks. A special tension wrench is called a Feather Touch, and it is used for high security mushroom and spool pin tumbler locks. Its delicate spring-loaded action allows the pick to bypass the tendencies of these pins to stick. A homemade version of the Feather Touch can be made from a medium-light duty steel spring.

As to getting lock picks for your own use, you cannot go down to your local hardware store and buy them. I could supply you with some sources or wholesalers, but I do believe it is illegal for them to sell to individuals. Your best bet would be to find a machine shop that will fabricate them for you. It would be less expensive and arouse less suspicion if you purchase a small grinder with a cut-off wheel and make your own. With a little practice, you can make a whole set in an afternoon. Use a copy of the illustrations in this book as templates and carefully cut them out with an X-ACTO knife. Cut down the middle of the lines. Acquire some stainless steel (many steak knives approach proper thickness).

With a glue stick, lightly coat one side of the paper template and apply it to the cleaned stainless surface, and allow it to dry. You'll need a can of black wrinkle finish spray paint. This kind of paint has a high carbon content and can stand high temperature of grinding. Spray the stainless (or knives) with the patterns glued on and dry in a warm oven or direct sunlight for one hour. Set aside for twenty-four more hours. Peel off the paper template and you are ready to cut and grind. Please use caution when cutting and grinding. The piece should be quenched every three seconds in cold water. Smooth up sharp edges with a small file or burnishing wheel.

Tools made from stainless steel will outlast the purchased ones. The tools purchased from most suppliers are made from spring steel and wear out after about 100 uses. The stainless steel ones, if properly made, should last over 2,000 uses.

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